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The scenic root

What The Economist’s Asia news editor Alex Travelli found at the centre of the universe

Land of the gods

The craggy mountains and dramatic valleys of Ladakh are imbued with the prayers of everyone who passes through them. Isabella Tree savours a slow trek to the Stok Valley

The benefits of a lousy passport

Travelling on an Indian passport is a nightmare. But Leo Mirani, The Economist’s news editor, finds that it forces him to go where people are pleased to see him

Scents and sensuality

India once had, and has now lost, the greatest olfactory culture the world has ever known. William Dalrymple sniffs out the perfumiers trying to revive it