Sorry, you need to enable JavaScript to visit this website.

India

The benefits of a lousy passport

Travelling on an Indian passport is a nightmare. But Leo Mirani, The Economist’s news editor, finds that it forces him to go where people are pleased to see him

Scents and sensuality

India once had, and has now lost, the greatest olfactory culture the world has ever known. William Dalrymple sniffs out the perfumiers trying to revive it