LADAKH Beyond the well-travelled Indus Valley, beyond the highest motorable road pass in the world (Khardung La, at 5,359 metres), lies the so-called River of Sadness, where flash floods have repeatedly devastated local communities in the lower meadowlands. On a yak-grazed plateau above, looking towards the Karakorum Range, is Kaafila Camp. Within walking distance of a tenth-century Bodhisattva, it’s made up of canvas tents outfitted with proper beds and beaten copper sinks. In summer seek out the shy Himalayan snow leopard (one of the Indian owners is a specialist); in winter join the mobile camp in lowland tiger country. kaafilacamps.com; from $2,100 per person all inclusive for three-day minimum stay, based on four sharing.